Jean Paul GaultierĪs part of a project in which Jean Paul Gaultier entrusts his couture house to a different designer each season, Olivier Rousteing was invited to be the exclusive designer for this collection. Inspired by Ovid’s Metamorphoses, van Herpen’s latest collection challenged the line between human reality and the theorised supernatural form, featuring 3D printed panels made of thin upcycled cloth and rippling like waves as the ultimate extension of the human body. “The collection is very future-oriented, inspired by post-humanism, by transforming identities, the metaverse, but also hyperreality, where digital reality and physical reality are becoming indistinguishable,” said Iris van Herpen, who for 15 years has been designing for the metaverse. Going beyond expectations, Valli succeeded in producing flamboyant, voluminous, expansive single-coloured dresses, making his comeback statement strong and unforgettable.Īlso see: Private: French girl brand Rouje enters Hong Kong Iris van Herpen White ostrich- and crystal-trimmed dresses accessorised with spectacular mirrored butterfly sunglasses and gigantic dazzling chandelier earrings didn’t go unnoticed among all the glamorously coloured dresses. “L’Instant” celebrated Giambattista Valli’s return to the couture runway for the first time in three years. With calf-leather-crafted pink bustiers and bugle-beaded tank dresses, Kim Jones aimed to honour Rome, Paris and Kyoto – the three cities that informed the collection. Highlights included rare vicuna fur, brown tailored trouser suits and turtleneck sweater dresses representing the co-existence of elegance and cosiness. Minimalist, effortless dressing in only the most precious materials set the tone for Fendi’s latest haute couture collection. No matter the colour, Saab provided a look to suit any jaw-dropping entrance and any and all genders. Saab successfully mixed different fashion themes in his couture show, where the fierce red and black statement pieces contrasted with glamorous pink and nude hues. The men’s couture line from Elie Saab clearly stole the show, ranging from feathered regal capes to black velvet tuxedos to rival the women’s see-through black mesh gowns with deep red embroidery. When I saw this piece, I understood that the reference in the embroidery comes from Ukrainian folk costume,” explained Chiuri, whose version came to life in intricately embroidered pieces – many in long silhouettes with billowing sleeves – in a subdued colour palette of white and beige. “I saw this work of hers in which she embroidered onto a painted landscape. With the “Tree of Life” as an emblematic theme, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri worked with Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko to put together this latest collection. All this was presented on a striking set created by artist Xavier Veilhan in a Paris equestrian centre.Īlso see: Fashion Shoot: Sense of identity Christian Dior She then wove them together with the help of the house’s expert textile designers and dressmakers to create the signature tweeds and silhouettes clients have come to expect. Ranging from a luminous grass-green jacket once worn by Inès de Fressange’s to a bright pink shown in the 1988 Chanel couture show, artistic director Virginie Viard drew from a wide range of inspiration for Chanel’s newest couture collection. That meant reinterpreting gazar, the signature silk invented by Cristobal Balenciaga, in a new kind of neoprene as well as showcasing his own haute couture version of streetwear – with the help, of course, of his celebrity clients like Kim Kardashian, Nicole Kidman and Naomi Campbell. “This year I decided that I needed to put more of myself into it, and kind of find a new future, you know?” said creative director Demna Gvasalia. A dystopian mood took over the 51st Balenciaga haute couture show, as a series of faceless humanoids in black neoprene stalked the runway.
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